Slipstitching machine



July 30, 1940.

E. F. HAGER SLIPSTITCHING MACHINE 9 Sheets--Sheelzy 1 l "Jim1:

@OE Q Filed June 19, 1935 July 30, 1940. E F HAGER 2,209,456

SLIPSTITCHING MACHINE Filed June 19', 1935 v v9 sheets-sheet 2 F- Haw *GWW* l ATTORNEY5 E. F. HAGER SLIPSTITCHING MACHINE July 30, 1940.

Filed June 19, lss 9 sheets-sheet s 'July 30, 1940- y E. F. HAGER SLIPSTITCHING MACHINE Filed June 19. 1935 9 Sheets-Sheet 4 90" L90'anvvlnrrolzf M F '4 BY l 'Ki/.Mahi

Q IMIATTORNEYS.

July 30 1940- E; F. HAGERv 2.209,456 Y SLIPSTITcH-ING MACHINE ATTORNEYS July 30, 1940.

E. F. HAGER `2,209,456

' sLIPsTITcHING MACHINE Filed June 19, 1935 9 Sheets-Sheet 6 Q m Q 5 N l .,a f Q z l! Q o) Q ATTORNEYS.

July 3o, 1940. -E, F, HAGERf/ 2,209,456

SLIPSTITING MACHINE Filed June 19, 1935 9 Sheets-Sheet 7 sa C) f .50. 89 /gg C) 9 July 30, 1940. E. F. HAGER SLIPSITITCHING MACHINE IFiled June 19, 193s 9 Sheets-Sheet -8 I l IVENTR: 249 E H0304 July 30, 1940. E F, HAGER I 2,209,456

' SLIPSTITCHING MACHINE Filed June 19, 193s 9 Sheets-Sheet 9 EZ( ATTORN E YS Patented 30,

UNITED STATES SLIPSTITCHING MACHINE Emil F. nager, Richmonafnin, N. Y., assigner, by

mesne assignments, to Handi Necktie Machinery Corp., a corporation of New York Application June 19, 19.35, serial No.v 27,339 24 claims. (Cl. 11s- 174)l This invention is a novel slipstitching machine, being a machine for producing seams of that special kind wherein the thread is at no point engaged with itself but passes into and out of the fabric in a progressive manner longitudinally of the seam, as with a running stitch. This class of sewing machine has extended practical utility, but for purposes of illustration is herein shown as designed and specifically constructed for the slipstitching of neckties, with their linings, heretofore usually stitched by hand; although various features and principles hereof might be employed for various analogous stitching purposes, such as the hemming or basting ofhandkerchiefs, or various other articles.

A characteristic of a slipstitched product is that two or more fabrics or plies are connected somewhat loosely in such manner that the thread can slip longitudinally through the work, which condition, among otherresults, allows play and avoids breakage of the thread when pull is applied to the fabric. While machines have heretofore been devised for slipstitchng various products, they have operated on such principles that they were complicated and costly of structure, and inconvenient and slow in operation, and not practically adaptable for `neckti e manufacture.

The general object of the present invention is, to afford a slipstitching machine of high practical merit and efficiency, and one which will turn out a large hourly output. Further objects are to afford such a machine of simple and rugged construction, convenient of operation and of high quality in performance and product. A further object is to afford such a machine wherein many or all of the operations and the timing thereof are ormay be automatically performed, so that the operative at most has only to insert the work or necktie components and close and start the 40 machine, and subsequently remove the completed product.

A particular object hereof is to obviate the necessity of the usual longitudinal feed of a long article, such as a necktie, and to provide instead 45 for clamping the work betweennon-traveling members or jaws. and while so clamped effecting the stitching by a longitudinally traveling needleV of fextended length, preferably in a single stroke. As usual in necktie manufacture the fabric com- 50 ponents are preferably assembled with the facing or main blank or body -folded inside out, and the lining, and perhaps a tape, located thereon,

' the'components being stitched in that relation and the product being subsequently reversed, 65A pressed and nnished.

The present invention involves not only a novel machine but also a method of slipstitching a necktie and its lining, or other analogous fabric article which may be similarly cut on the bias or otherwise longitudinally stretchable. aspect of such method the invention may be described as comprising the pressing of the fabric for the entire length of the intended seam into a laterally crimped condition as permitted by the elastic stretch of the fabric, and holding the article at full length in such crimped condition while piercing longitudinally in on operation the entire series of crimps and drawing the thread therethrough to form the slipstitch seam.

In one aspect the present invention may be outlined as a sewing machine for producing a seam of slipstitches, as for attaching the plies ,of a necktie, comprising a work crimping or clamping means consisting of an opposed pair of jaw members or dies, having complementary short projections or ribs alternated with recesses or depressions, adapted to press and shape the work :into a transversely corrugated or crimped condition and clamp it so, and s aid clamping or crimping members or jaws having also complementary longitudinal grooves constituting a way through which a needle and thread may be traversed, together with a needle adapted to traverse said way and thereby pierce the successive crimps or corrugations of the'work, and means for 'causing-relative longitudinal movements as between the work clamping means and the needle with thread, preferably by a single stroke ofl the needle, thereby to produce a slipstitch or running seam.

In the preferred form the movements of the needle itself are herein caused to control or produce certain operations, namely by a system of control devices or fcontrollersf operated by the needle and operating through certain connections or longitudinal rods, preferably rockable; for example the rst controller actuating the first rockrod to cause reversal of drive when the needle has completed its advance stroke; the second controller, in the nature of a latch, operating the second rockrod to release the thread end during the needle retraction;and..the third control device causing rocking of the third rockrod to disconnect drive and cause stoppage when the needle is fully retracted; all as will be more fully described in connection with the accompanyingv drawings illustrating anembodiment of'the invention as adapted for the slipstitching of neckties. i

Referring now tothe drawings, on sheet 1,

Figure 1 is a general front elevation view of a slipstitching machine embodying the present invention, the illustration broken away at several'points v for longitudinal 'condensation of drawing, on account of the relatively great length of the complete machine. The machine is shown in closed position, that is, with the upper clamping head and jaw yin lowered position upon the Work, after the completion of the seam and retraction and stoppage of the needle; and this will be considered as the final or initial stage of operation for convenient purposes of description. Fig. 2

is a ,front elevation of the needle drive' box or assembly, on a much enlarged scale, and partially broken out to illustrate details of construction.

Fig. 3 is a transverse vertical section looking from the left, taken on the line 3-3 of Fig. 2.

On sheet 2, Fig. 4 is a general top plan view of the machine of Fig. 1, broken away for condensation of gure, and with the right end of the machine omitted beyond the second or middle needle actuated control device. Fig. 5 is a similar top plan view partly overlapping Fig. 4

and continuing the illustration to the extreme right end. Fig. 6 is a iront elevation of the needle,

at length, also broken away for c ondensation.

Fig. 7 ona much enlarged scale shows the barb 4pointed left end of a preferred form of needle' in front elevation; and Fig. 8 is a transverse sec- 80 `tion near the front end of the needle, taken on the line 8 8 of Fig. 7. Fig. 9 is a partial perspective view showing the relation of the work or fabric to its clamping members and the needle during the penetrating stroke of the needle.

On sheet 3, Fig. 10 is a transverse section, looking from the left, of certain parts including the work clamping jaws in closed position, and the work presentingY carrier or tray, taken on the line Ill--l of Fig. 1. Fig. 11 is a longitudinal vertical section through a short length of the work and the clamping jaws, on an enlarged scale, showing the needle in advancing stroke, without tread; while Fig. 12 is a corresponding view showing the needle retracting with thread. Fig. 13 is a condensed partial top plan view showing the work,

consisting of necktie material and lining, in 'operative position resting partly upon the under clamping jaw and adjacent table and partly upon the tray or carrier by which the work is placed in the machine, the upper work clamp or jaw being omitted.

on sheet 4, Fig. 14 is a left emi/ation view of the drive control mechanism, partly in section on the line i4 of Fig. 17, shown in initial position. Figs. 15 and 16 in the same position as Fig. 14, show certain groups of parts thereof separately illustrated! Fig. 17 is a top plan view of tlm reame parts as in 14, with condensation.

- On sheet 5, Fig. 18 is a left elevation in section of the same parts as Fig. 14 but showing a later position; while Eig. 19 shows in top plan view certainv parts thereof in the same posititon as Fig. 18; and Fig. 20 theA same in slightly later stage. Similarly, Fig. 21 `is a left elevation in section of the same parts as Figs. 14 and 18, showing the parts in a still later position; and Fig. 22

is a top view showing certain parts thereof in corresponding position, and Fig. 23 a front elevation of a detail thereof. Fig. 24 is a left elevation in section ofthe same parts as Figs. 14, 18 and-21,

showing a later position; and Fig. 25 is a top view showing certain parts thereof in corresponding position.

On sheet 6, Fig. 26 is a top plan View of certain selected portions of the machine, longitudinally lines fully open.

condensed by omitting other portions, showing parts of the thread mechanism at the left end and their operating connectionsv from the right end of the machine. Fig. 27 is a top view of the second controller or latch device in a later position than Fig. 26, after the advancing needle has passed it; and Fig'. 28 is a similar view of the second controller in a new position after the return ofthe needle. Fig. 29 is a perspective view of certain parts of Fig. 26 shown in posil0 tion corresponding with-Fig. 28.

On sheet 7, Fig. 30 is a general left elevation of the parts adjacent the left end of the machine, in closed position, omitting the work and work tray. Fig. 31 is a similar left elevation l5 showing Ythe machine partly open, and in dotted Fig. 32 is a partial left elevation showing some of the same parts as in Figs.

30 and 31 but in a later stage or position. Figs. 33Vand 34 are perspective views of certain parts 20 appearing in Figs. 30 and 31.

On sheet 8, Fig. 35 is a top plan view of the left end of the machine; as seen by an observer facing rightward and looking down, showing the. parts in a position corresponding with Fig. 30. 2 Fig. 36 is a top view similar to Fig. 35 with the parts in the later stage corresponding to Fig. 31; and Fig. 37 is a similar topview with the parts in the later stage corresponding with the dotted lines in Fig. 3 1. 30

On sheet 9, Fig. 38 is a top plan view of part of thethread handling mechanism, in position corresponding with Fig. 35, showing the rst step of the initial threading operations; and Fig. 39 is a right elevation of one of the thread gripping 35 and cuttingdevices in corresponding position. Fig. 40 is a top plan view corresponding to Fig. 38, and Fig. 41 is an elevation corresponding to Fig. 39, these showing the same parts in a 'later position or stage of operation. Similarly, Figs.' 40 42 and 43 are top and elevation-views showing the same parts in a still later stage. Fig. 44 is a similar top view showing a yet later stage; and Fig. 45 a top view showing the final position in the series of threading operationsY illus- 4u trated by Figs. 38 to 45. Fig. '46 is a top plan view showing the same and certain additional parts, partly in section, at a subsequent stage of operation, the thread being pulled by the rein'acting needle; and Fig. 47 is a right elevation 50 of the gripper-cutter device corresponding thereto. Figs. 48 and 49 in perspective Ashow disassembledY parts on the gripper cutter device of Figs. 38 to 47.

The work or necktie A, Figs. 1, 4 etc., is shown, *55 Figs. 9-13 etc., as composed of a blank B, as of silk, to constitute the facing or cover, reversely Y folded to receive a longitudinal connecting seam near the contiguous edges, and a lining piece C, both preferably of bias-cut or other elastic fabric, 6C and the two so assembled that the seam along the main blank passes centrally along the lining piece; so that when the product is reversed the lining will substantially occupy the space between the front and back portions of the folded silk 6 blank. This is one of the methods ingeneral used in the hand sewing of neckties. 'Ihe production of the slipstitching seam by the prent invention is substantially as indicated in Eg. 9, the work being crimped between opposing jaws, 7( and the needle being thrust through the crimps either carrying a. thread D or to preferably receive and draw back such a thread through the fabric.

Some of the general parts of the machine will 7| constituting a continuationof- Fig. "1.

The needle 50 has a penetrating point 5I at its head or left end, and while it might have a closed eye at the same end for thrusting the thread through the work. is shown as of barbed form, having an open eye, notch or` slit 52 .to receive the thread when advanced, and to draw the 'threadithrough the work on the retracting.

stroke. The cross sectionof the needle wire may be as in Fig. 8, of greater height than width,

e. g. .043 x .036 inch, and with side grooves 53 between the point and notch for the accommodation of the thread. As will appear the needle preferably is caused to control its own drive reversal' and stoppage, for example.through the series of control devices mentioned, preferably operated by the extreme right hand or butt end or tail 54 of the needle.

Cooperating with the work and needle are the opposite crimping members, namely an upper member or jaw 56' and an under member or jaw 51. These are in the nature of dies formed to corrugate or shape the fabric into a longitudinal series of transverse crimp's, for which purpose the jaws are provided with complementary projections or ribs 5,8 and recesses or depressions 59, these being of suitably short length corresponding withthe length of stitch, and being alternated so that the projections of one jaw Venter the recesses of the other.

The jaws are completed by a series of complementary longitudinal ways or grooves '50 in the projections 58, constituting a long groove or way through which the needle may advance and retract and thus be caused, to penetrate thecrimped fabric from one side to the other, as shown in Fig. 9 and indicated on a large scale in Figs. 11 and 12.

The under j aw 51 is shown mounted on a fixed longitudinal support 6| suitably attached. to a bed 62 constituting a portion vof the machine frame. To the rear of jaw 51 is a stationary work table F3 preferably bevelled along its front edge adjacent to the work as seen in Fig. 10. y\The bed 62 and table 53 constitute parts of a frame mounted at the top of frame legs or standardsy G4 as seen in Fig. 1, these upstanding from a base 65. -To the right of the legs 64 are shown additional standards 66, supporting a longitudinal table 61 and other parts which are substantially a continuation of the left hand or'work table 63.

The upper crimping jaw 56 is mountedbeneath a rising and lowering carriage or -head 58, which might move vertically but preferably is swung from and into position, beingimounted at the extremities of swinging arms 69, shown in Fig. 4 shaped as three-sided frames. The rear ends of the swinging -frames or arms have hubs secured to a longitudinal rockshaft 10. ,This shaft preferably has rearwardly extending arms 1| for partial Vcounterbalancing means or springs 12, and the shaft turns in a series of fixed bearings 13. By this mounting the upper jaw head 68 may be shifted upwardly from and downward- While the components of the necktie might'be assembled directly on the rear and front tables it is preferred to assemble them elsewhere. For this purpose the front table or tray 14, thus constituting a transferring device, is readily remov.

able to a convenient place whereat the compo'- nents may be assembled on the tray, afterwards to be inserted in the machine thereby to present the work to the crimping and stitch-forming means. The work carrier or tray 14 may rest upon fixed frame parts 62 and 15, see also Fig. 29, and may be positioned by suitable positioning pin 16. It may be removed Aas soon as the work is clamped.

The work .tray 14, for temporary work holding purposes is shown provided with -a system of spring ngers 11. Each nger projects from a collar 18 having squared sides, and the several collars are all mounted loosely upon a shaft 19 supported in bearings near the ends of the tray. Each spring finger is adapted to be held yieldingly in either its operative or its idle position. It is shown operative in full-lines in Fig. 10 and in an upwardly swung retracted position in dotted lines. To hold it in either position there is shown a plate or strip 80 beneath the collar, lifted by a spring 8|. This permits each finger to be thrown down manually, to snap into holding.position, as the work is manually positioned upon the tray. Preferably a device is provided vto open all. of the fingers simultaneously, and

swing up all of the work holding fingers 11.

The perferred work presenting operation is that after each tray has been brought to position, to present the work to the crimping jaws, the crimping head 6B and upper jaw are closed upon the work, which thereafter is sufficiently held by the jaws; and the work tray fingers 11 are thereupon immediately released as described and the tray removed -tov a remote point for the attachment of new work while the stitching of the previous article proceeds.

The work components, consisting of folded facd'ing blank Band lining piece C, shown in Figs. 4, 9, 10, 13 land46, may be assembled, as stated, at

a convenient'remote place upon the carrier or tray 14 byswhich they are presented to or placed in the stitching machine. There may be a number ofsuchtrays or carriers, each supporting the assembled .components in front' of the stitching line or axisjS, as best shown in Figs. 10 and 13. Preferably the lining is first set down, with its center line coincident with the stitching line,

which may be' done visually or by any known kind of gagingA means. The folded facing blank is` then laid down over the lining. The widthof the facing inlgfront of the stitching line is about equal to the full width of the lining at each point in its length. The open edges of the facing extend slightly beyond or behind the stitching line,

as shown. 'I'he seam line of the lining and facinl is thus axial to the lining, the facing to be formed into a tube adapted, upon reversal, to accommodate the lining, as in usual hand sewing practice. During the manual placing of the facing blank upon the tray, the holddown fingers 11 Y are snapped down successively to hold the adjusttance about equal to the width of the lining atthe corresponding point in the length of thf necktie. For preliminary adjustment of the studs 02 for any given shape of necktie, each stud is shown mounted on a narrow transverse slide 02, formed with a series of stud receiving holes 92h and having at its front end a slot 82 to receive a set screw 82d by which the slide or strip is fixed in its adjustedposition. By these arrangements, at the remote point, the lining may be laid upon the carrier or tray, symmetrically to the4 stitching line, and the doubled facing blank then. laid upon the lining, in contact with the gage members'02 along its front or folded edge. The holddown fingers 11 are brought down to maintain the assembled position and the tray is then transferred to the stitching machine, where it is attached in position for the assembled components to lie between the crimping jaws which, when closed, hold the work and permit the fingers to be released and the tray to be removed for the attachment of new work.

The upswinging jaw head 68 has a handle 86, and when lowered may be forcibly clamped down upon the work by a locking handle 01, or two of them, each being a compound lever, fulcrumed at 1, its outer arm having a lug 88 wedging against a surface 89 on a part of the arms or frame which swingingly carries the head.

The needle 50 is preferably driven advancingly and retractingly by a simple system of friction drive wheels or rolls, contained in a drive box 90 shown in Figs. 1-5, this drive being reversible so as first to propel the needle with a leftward stroke and then a return rightward stroke. B etween the drive boxi 90 and the cooperating crimping .jaws 56, 51, and alined with theneedle groove 00 in said jaws is a tubular guide piece 9| shown mountedon the drive box, just to the right of the work crimping jaws. The needle is of such excess length as to be always engaged with the drive rollers, as seen by 'its advanced position in Fig. 4 and by its retracted position in Fig. 5.

For eiilciency and accuracy of drive there is shownan alined series of lower drive rolls 93, namely six, and the same number of upper drive rolls 94; each roll groovedas seen in Figs. 2 and 3 to accommodate the upper and lower portions of the needle, see Fig. 8,:and thus securelyengage the needle and hold it upright with itsthread notch at its upper'nside. drive rolls are shown mounted in an under block 95 and the upper rolls in an upper block 96, these constituting the drive box. The under rolls are mounted on under shafts 91 and the upper rolls on upper shafts 98, turning'in the respective blocks. One of these twelve shafts, for example the second shaft from the left in the lower series, is extended at 99 as a driving shaft for The lower the series. All of the shafts are geared together for identical action, namely by gears |00 on the lower shafts, idlers |0| connecting the adjacent lower gears, and gears |02 on the upper shafts engaging the gears |00. By this arrangement the rotation of the drive shaft 99 turns all of the drive rolls in unison, Vfirstly to advance and secondly to retract the needle.

To regulate the relation between the drive rolls and the needle there is shown, set into holes bored in the under block 95, a series of vertical pins |04 which extend upward into corresponding holes in the upper block, thus accurately alining the blocks. -In the upper block above each pin |04 is a threaded pin |05 which may be adjusted vertically and which sets the initial spacing of the blocks, for example as shown, so that the drive rolls will be spaced properly to receive the needle, and contact it with ample driving friction, but without undue pressure thereon.

To hold down the upper block in a cushioned manner there is shown a system of bolts |08 extendedlloosely through holesin the upper block and threaded into the under block, with strong springs |01 beneath the screw heads. 'I'his permits the bolts to be adjusted to apply spring pressure to hold down the upper block and drive rolls, with provisionfor slight yield to minimize shock and avoid breakage.

The means for rotating the needle drive rolls will now be described. The Idrive shaft 99 thereof is shown in Figs. 1--5V and it rotates in fixed bearings |09. Certain of the parts are shown also in larger scale in Figs. 14 and 17. A sprocket wheel ||0 is mounted loosely on the shaft near its front end. Further to the rear is a gear also loose on the shaft. The sprocket wheel has clutch teeth or dogs ||2 constituting a clutch member to be engaged for forward drive, while the gear has a clutch member or teeth H3 engageable for reverse drive. Keyed on the shaft between these is an oppositely toothed clutch member |25, shiftable as will be described.

The clutch members ||2 and ||3 may be continuously rotated in opposite directions as follows. Beneath the gear is an idler gear lll, Fig. 14, acting to reverse the direction of rotation. this idler gear being attached to an adjacent sprocket wheel H5, Fig. 17. A sprocket chain Ill extends to the-front sprocket wheel ||0, and a,

rear sprocket chain ||1 extends to the rear sprocket wheei Ils, both of said sprocket chains' extending from sprocket pinions on a cross shaft ||8 beneath the drive box. On the shaft III is also a grooved pulley"||9 engaged by a V-belt |20 extending'from the pulley 2| of a suitable motor |22 for which is a switch |23 by which power may be turned on and oil' at will.

Returning now to the shiftable clutch member |25, this is moved frontwardly to deliver advance to the needle and rearwardly forthe return stroke. The clutch member is grooved and theA groove is engaged by a roll |26 at the right side of a shift lever |21 from which a starting handle |28 extends upwardly. The lower end of the shift lever is pivoted at |29, see Figs. 14 tof/24.

forward drive position, and a rearwardly exterliz5 ing arm |32 with tapered end'by which it can be yieldingly positioned in neutral position, asv

is shown a latch |36 in the form of a hookedUY rockarm extended upwardly from a rockrod |55 to be later described, the arm being shown latched in Flg. 2l, but unlatched in the other figures. Cooperating also with the clutch lever arm |3| is a vertical pin |31 pressed upwardly by an adinstable spring |38, tending thus to lift the arm, and strong enough to throw the clutch lever back to neutral and beyond into reverse drive position. It acts as a drive-reversing spring.

Cooperating with the main shifting or clutch lever |21 is an auxiliary means |40, shown also as a lever, and fulcrumed also on the axle |29. The auxiliary or secondary lever stands alongside the main lever, as seen in Fig. 17, and it has a front arm |4| by which it may be latched in rear position, and a rear arm |42 liftable to throw Y the lever forward out of latched position. The auxiliary lever carries also a rightwardly extending lug |43 having an adjustable contact screw for contacting the rear side of the main'lever |21, thus forming a stop for limiting the rearward swing of the primary shift lever, and later for swinging it back to neutral. The auxiliary lever carries alsoat its left side a cam roll |44 by which it may be initially swung rearward, and thus set and latched. Cooperating with the front arm` |4| of the auxiliary lever is a latch |46 in the form of a rockarm opstanding from*- a rockrod |59 operated to uphold the arm |4| as will be described. The rear arm |42 is pressed upwardly by a pin |41 which is acted upon by an adjustable coil spring |46.

The coil springs '|38 and |48 of the levers |21 and |40 may be so related that the latter is somewhat stronger than the former, but that when both are free they cooperate to restore the shift lever |21 to neutral position, the rst spring pressing the shift lever'rearwardly and the second spring acting through the auxiliary lever pressing the shift lever forwardly. The second spring |48 being the one pressing the levers toward neutral may be' termed the throw-oil s'pring.

Before starting a seam the auxiliary lever |40 is ,to be swung rearwardly and there latched, tlus charging the spring |48. This may be effected by the lifting movement of the crimping head 68 mounted on the rear rockshaft 10. Thus as seen in Figs 4, 14, 11 and others the rockshaft 10 carries a collar |50 from which extends a cam |5| turning in the same plane with the cam roll |44. Comparing Figs. 14 and 18, the liftof the head causes the shaft cam to swing rearward the auxiliary lever, against the pressure of spring |48, the latch |46 entering beneath the front arm |4| and thus holding the lever and spring charged, ready for subsequent action, as will be described. The cam collar |50 on rockshaft 10 has also an end cam |52 extending rightwardly to cooperate with a cam roll |61 to be .later described.

The automatic control of the drive by the primary and secondary shift levers |21 and |40 is herein effected in harmony, with, and in fact by,

the movements of the needle itself,through a U series of control devices in the nature of actuators or latches, already mentioned, thus controlling the reversal of drive, and nal stoppage, and

certain other essential operations. These needle actuated devices, herein referred to as controllers,

5 include, in the order shown in Figs. 4 and 5, a rst controller |54 operating through a first .rockrod |55, carrying the' latch |36 already mentioned; and a second controller |56 operating through a second rockrod |51 which extends to and eiects thread control including the release of the thread at the proper point in the retraction of the needle; and a third controller |58, near the extreme right of the machine, operating through a third rockrod |59, which carries the latch |46, and brings about the final stoppage of the machine with the needle fully retracted. These rockrods and the sliderods next described have their bearings in a system of bearing blocks |60 upstanding from frame parts 61 or |15.

In addition to the three rocking rods just mentioned are adjacent rods describable as follows. A rear sliderod |6| and a parallel front sliderod |62 are rigidly` interconnected by across bar |63 as a single rod system capable of reciprocating rightwardly and leftwardly. See Figs. 4, 5, 17, 19 and 26. To the left of'one of the bearings |60 the sliderod |6| carries a collar |64 between which and the bearing is a spring |65 pressing the rod system leftwardly. At the extreme left end of rod 6| is a head or enlargement |66 carrying a rockarm and cam roll |61 engaged and actuated by the cam |52 on the rockshaft 10. By this arrangement the cam initially holds the sliderod in its rightward position, but when the jaw head is lifted the cam swings away and allows'the sliderod to shift leftward. The purpose of the sliderod reciprocation is to regulate the action of the second and third controllers |56 and |58. For this purpose the rod |62 carries a guard or locking iinger |69 for the second controller, and a similar guard or -linger |10 for the third controller, see Fig. 23; and the rod may accordingly be termed a guard rod.v

The needle, as already explained, is always in full engagement with the drive-roll-set contained in the drive box 90, andwhen advanced leftward therebeyond engages in the needle guide' 9| vand.

then in the needle way 60 in the crimping members.` When retracted rightward beyond the drive box the needle is accommodated and guided within a needle guide bar |13, which contains a pair of wear plates |14- confining the needle, but presenting a groove which is accessibly open at the rear side, as seen in Fig. l5 etc. The needle guide is mounted on a longitudinal frame bar |15 attached to the frame table 61; and the bar |15 has a longitudinal dovetail groove at its upper side to receive a series of blocks |16 carrying pivots for certain parts of the several controllers, as will be described. Y

Basishas now been made for description of the three controllers and their actuation by the needle movements and the controls eiected by them. The rst or drive-reversing controller |54 is slightly to the right of the drive box 90.

`It comprises a feeler or follower |19 in the form of a lever or arm, pivoted at |18 on block |16, and having at its extremity a contact wheel |80, with thin edge, adapted to enter between the needle guide plates and contact directly with the rear side of the needle. The follower |19 is shown in Figs. 16, 1'? and 21 as engaged by the needle end as therefore swung rearwardly;-

but in Figs. l, 14, 24 and 25 it is shown out of engagement, the needle having advanced leftis employed to bring about the reversal of drive, the needle advance ceasing and the needle immediately commencing its retraction. A spring |8| constantly presses the follower arm toward the needle. A4 link |82 extends from the arm to the top end of an upstanding nger |83 on the rockrod |55 that carries the latch |36 by which the shift lever |21 and clutch are held in forward driving position. A spring |80 Fig. 4 tends to rock the rod |55 and latch |36 into latching position; the latch preferably having a. Spring hook construction-Fig. 16, and the link |82 having a loose or slot connection to pin |83, Fig. 17. l

While the butt end |54 of the needle is shown utilized for the actuation of the several followers, manifestly a shoulderor projection at another point could serve, or the control could be derived magnetically, optically or otherwise from the needle movement Without mechanical con`- tact.

Coming now to the second or thread release controller |56 this comprises a follower or arm |81 having needle contacting wheel |88, shown in contact with the needle 4in Figs. 26, 28 and 29, but out of contact in Figs. 4 and 27. The lever is pivoted at |89 on one of the blocks |16 and a spring |90 presses the contact toward the needle, this being mounted on a plate extension |9| of the block |16. The lever |81 has its left arm longer than its right arm, the left arm carrying a secondary latch or hook finger-|92 extending rearwardly and having a. spring |93` tending to swing it rightward. The hooked rear p extremity of the linger |92 isarranged for engagement with the left arm |94 of a primary latch |95 pivoted on the extension plate |9I, with a spring |96tending to swing the latch clockwise into latching position. The plate -carries also a stop |91 limiting the swing of the latch by the spring so that the hook |92 may reengage it. The latch |95 is arranged to engage an upstanding finger 200 mounted on the rockrod |51. By this means the rockrod can be latched in the position shown in Figs. 26 and 27 or can be released to rock rearwardly as in Figs. 28 and 29. 'Ihe resetting and latching of this rockrod and the operations performed and controlled by it willbe subsequently described in connection with the thread handling mechanism at the left end of the machine.

'I'he needle may be operated to pull threadA through the work for 6 to 8 inches, more or less, while the thread end is held. and the thread then released for the balance of the stroke; but it is preferred by proper positioning Yof the second controller to pullthe thread through for half the seam length, then releasing the thread end, but now -clamping the supply thread, or vice versa, so that for the remaining half stroke the thread will slide through the needle slit until the end of the seamisreached; which saves left arm longer than its right arm and the left arm carries a latch linger 201 pressed rightwardly by a spring 208, the latchhaving a hooked rear end adapted to engage behind the top of an. upstanding finger 2|0 on the rockrod |59. The collar by which the iinger 2|0 is attached to the rockrod carries also a spring 2| l tending to swing rearwardly the finger and thus rock the rod, the movement being limited by the auxiliary lever arm MI.

The operation may be now described of theV control of the drive, the thread releasing control to be left to later description. Initially the l0 crimpinghead is assumed to be in swung down position, as in Figs. 1, 4, 5, V14 and others, and the shaft 1|0 rocked forward. The shift lever |21I is in neutral position and the auxiliary lever |40 is unlatched and swung forward. The needle l0 is fully retracted to the right, and the guard rod |62 stands rightward'by the action of cam |52. Both the shift lever and auxiliary lever are unlatched as seen in Fig. 14, but at least the shift lever latch is in a condition free to engage and 20 latch the front arm of its lever.

The operation is initiated by the opening of the machine, by .throwing up the crimp jaw head 68 to the full line position of Fig. 18, by which movement the auxiliary lever is swung back and g there latched, its spring |48 under compression.

.This movement at the same time allows the guard rod |62 to slide leftward, so that the, guard |10 thereon pulls`leftward the latch 201 of the third controller, which releases the nger 2|0 and per- 30 mits rockrod |59 to rock rearward, or leftward in Fig. 18 so that latch |46 thereon is free to engage under and latch the front arm of the auxiliary lever.

' The completed work, if any, may now be reu moved and a new piece of work presented to the machine and the crimping jaws again closed, thus rocking forward the shaft to the Fig. -21 position. The cam |5| thereby releases the auxiliary lever, but leaving it latched in charged con- 49 dition. The rightward return of the guard rod shifts the guard |10, but without permitting re, latching of latch 201, since p in 2|0 has meanwhile swung rearward as seen in Fig. 20. The

parts are now set for commencing the drive.

The starting lever |28 is now pulled clear forward, as -by hand, thus swinging the clutch lever |21 until its front arm. is latched down by latch |36 on rockrod |55. This shift engages the midto its left position shown in Fig. 4, through them,

crimped work, and will-then immediately reverse and vreturn to right position; and during these- .movements'the needle effects its own-controls as follows.

As the needle starts leftward its butt or tail .you passes from under the contact wheel of needle Yfollower 203, as seen by comparing Figs. 19 and v22`a'nd this effects a tilting movement of the follower, causing the latch 201 to move rearwardly and reengage behind the finger 2 Il, in position .65 ready for the final stopping action. As the advancing needle butt later passes the second controller and still later returns thereto, thread controlling actions are 'performed as will be later described. v

When the needle butt reaches the contact of the first controller, and passes out of contact therewith. as seen by comparing Figs. 17 and 25, the controller arm or follower |19 swings front- .wardly and through link .|02 and finger |00 u causes frontward rocking of rockrod |55. This tilts forwardly the latch |35 as seen-by comparing Figs. 21 and 24, releasing the shift lever |21 to its spring |38, the spring immediately throwing the lever rearwardly, not merely to neutral position, but through neutral position, and by the force of the spring and momentum onward to the reverse position shown in Fig. 24. In this reverse position the shift lever has come to a stop in contact with the stop |43 on the auxiliary lever and the tapered end of arm |32 of the shift lever is yieldingly held in reverse position by spring |33. These actions, occurring instantaneously, cause the clutch member |25 to shift rearward into reverse drive position, the power of the motor being then communicated to operate the drive box reversely; the movement of the needle being consequently immediately reversed and the needle retracting rightward towards its original position. During this return movement the needle butt first passes under follower |19, so as to free latch |36 vfor subsequent reengagement with the shift lever. Further to the right, and after the thread release operation, the needle butt acts upon the follower 203, swinging it so as to pull forwardly the -latch 201, see Fig. 22, this movement rocking the rod |53 and thereby retracting the latch |45 from the position of Fig. 21

to that of Fig. 14, releasing the auxiliary lever. In other words as soon as the needle butt has passed the follower 203 the auxiliary clutch lever is released to its spring |48, and is thrown forwardly to the Fig. 14 position, its contact |43 thereby shifting forwardly the main shift lever'. |21, namely from the reverse drive position of Fig. 24 to the neutral position 'of Figs. 14 and 18, in which position the two springs neutralize each other. While this throwoif operation might be accompanied by braking action for prompt stoppage, itis found in practise that the natural friction 'of the light parts causeslthe drive to cease -and the needle to come to rest immediately upon reaching its full retracted position shown in Figs. 5, 17 and19.

The needle double stroke and production of seam may occur in a very short period, as four seconds or less. The puncturing of the work by the needle and the drawing through of thread are preferably on successive strokes. The described manual actions between needle operations are quickly performed, and several neckties per minute may be stitched. By the proposed automatic handling and feeding of a series of work trays to and from the machine the production can be greatly enhanced, especially with the accompanying automatic opening .and closing of the crimping jaws. For neckties the complete seam may be about 40 inches long. The stitches may be about inch at each side of the work, and by suitable designing of the crimping jaws may be caused to vary as desired, for example the stitches may be shorter, as 1/4 inch, towards the ends of the seam.` These statements are not limitations but merely illustrative data.

Coming now to the thread handling devices at the extreme left end of the` machine, the description may conveniently commence with the parts directly associated with` the rockrod |51 controlled bythe second or thread-releasing controller |55. The rockrod near its left extremity carries a finger 22B which may swing rearwardly to the position shown in Figs. 29 and 32 or to a vertical position as shown in Figs. 26, 30, 3l, 35, 36 and 37. To rock the rod |51 frontwardly into the latched position shown in Fig. 26, the rocknger 220 is swung upwardly and frontwardly by a roll 22| mounted at the extremity of a rockarm 222 depending from the extreme left end of the crimping head rockshaft 10. By this arrangement when the machine is opened the shaft is rocked from the Fig. 29 or 30 to the Fig. 31 position, thus lifting the finger 220 and setting the rockrod |51 in latched position.

The ,rockrod |51 at its left end carries also a rocker or cam 223, by the'rocking of which the rear arm of a lever 224 is lifted. This action swings downwardly the front end or head 225 of the lever, against the upward pressure of a coil spring 226. -This spring not only tends to hold the rear arm,or the roller thereon, down against the rocker cam 223, but swings the rocker and thus supplies the spring pressure to rock rearwardly the rockrod |51 when unlatched. The further connections and operation of these parts will be later described.

To ensure that the needle will 'cooperate accurately with the thread handling devices when its point advances leftward beyond the needle way 60 in the crimping jaws, it requires to be guided to the point where it receives the thread. A tubular needle guide 230, with a lining, as

shown in Figs. 45 and 46, is mounted by means of a block 23| on the left end of the crimping head 88 or its swinging arin 69. Associated therewith at its left side is an extension piece 232 having a depending portion formed as a fork 233, the two prongs of which come down beyond'or to the left of the thread position, .thus holding the thread against deflection while the barbed needle advances closely under the thread between the sides of the fork.

The left end of the rockshaft 1|! carries not only the rockarm 222, already mentioned, but

to the right of said arm a collar or member 235 shown separately in Fig. 34. 'I'he member 235, fast on the shaft, comprises a cam lportion 236 cooperating with a lever 214 to be described, also a lug or contact extension ..231 coacting with lugs 24| and 242 to be described.

Also mounted on the rockshaft 10, but loose thereon, is a sleeve piece k240, shown separately in Fig. 33. This is located between the collar 235 and the, hub of the arms that carry the crimping head. The sleeve piece 24|)` is shown as having a first contact lug 24|, with a set screw for adjustment, and a second lug 242 opposing the lug 24|, with lug 231 of member 235 between them. 'Ihe piece 240' has also a depending rockarm 243 slotted at its lower end. This completes the description of the parts mounted on the left end of the rockshaft 10.

For convenience the' parts operated by the s rockarm 243 for turning the thread turret 251 may here be described. Engaged in lthe slot of the rockshaft.` When the crimping head is 4first raised this has no eiect on the rockarm 243, 70'

but when the head reaches the position shown in full lines in Fig. 31 the lug 231 meets'the lug 242, and from this point on the rocking movement of shaft 10`swings the-rockarm 243 from the full line to the dotted line position of Fig. i5

the rockarm is a longitudinal stud 244 extending B0 31. This thrusts forwardly the rack 246, to turn the turret 251, and the rack is brought back idly as the crimping head is brought down to its closed position, the extent of movement being adjustable by the screw in the lug 24|.

The active frontward and idlek rearward movements of the rack 246 are utilized to effect a half turn rotation of a turret 251, as follows. Referring to Figs. 30 to 37 and others, the rack 246 engages directly a gear or pinion 248 mounted on a vertical turret shaft 249 turning in a xed extension 250 of the machine table. Below the gear the shaft carries a grooved collar 25|, a fixed pin 252 engaging the groove. The turret shaft 249 carries above the pinion a ratchet wheel 253 with an even number of teeth, engaged by a pawl 254 in a manner to permit only clockwise rotation of the shaft, namely through 180 in each actuation, the rack throw being adjusted accordingly. Below the collar 25| is a fixed confining disk 255. Above the ratchet wheel the shaft rotates in a lbearing post 256, and at the top of the shaft, upon the upper end. of the post is the rotary member or turret 251, shown in the form of a fiat disk or bar revoluble'interm'ittently as described.

'I'he rotary turret 251 carries twin columns 269 spaced equally fromthe axis and being identical duplicates. One such column is shown separately inFig, 49. At one side its wall has a thread receiving aperture 260, one part of which 26| is a cutting edge taking part in a shearing action onthe thread, while another edge 262 of this aperture may be slightly rounded so as to grip the thread without cutting it, the latter being slightly the higher to ensure gripping before cutting. Movable-vertically within the hollow column 259 is a cylindrical pin or plunger 264 taking part both in the thread lcutting and gripping actions. 'Ihis plunger is vertically movable and has a thread recess 265, the upper edge of which comprises a thread cutting edge 266 and a thread gripping or pinching edge 261. The plunger also has a short slot 268 to limit its movement. f

'Ihe gripping and cutting actions are brought about by the vertical movement of the plunger 264 within the column 259. The plunger is normally in its inactive lowered position as seen in Fig. 3 9, and it is pressed downwardly by a spring 269 enclosed within a barrel 218 threaded adjustably into the top of the column. A screw 21| set in the wall of the column enters the slot 268 in the plunger and limits the descent of the pin so that it will not obstruct the turret rotation.

'I'he two plungers 264 within the respective c olumns of the thread turret cooperate with certain levers that lift and lower the plungers to act on the thread at proper times. One of these is the lever 224, the head 225 of which is beneath the front one of the two plungers. Beneath the rear one of the two plungers is similarly located a lever head 213 at the frontend of a lever 214. 'I'his lever i@ fulcrumed at 215 and has a spring 216 tending to lower its head 213. The rearend of the lever 214 carries a stud` running beneath the cam 236 fast on the rockshaft 10. By this arrangement the lifting" and lowering movements of the crimping head e'ect the oscillations of the lever 214 and thereby the vertical movements of the rear plunger 264.

The thread supply may be one of several spools 28| selectively mounted by spindles 282 on a shiftable or rotatable carriage 283. As seen in Fig. 37 the threadD may pass through a tension 285 of ordinary kind, from a spool 28| or from a cone or other supply. Thence it passes to an eye 286 at the left end of a horizontal post 281 and thence rightward to an eye 288 atop a vertical post 289. From the second eye it Itravels to the thread handling devices comprising the grip-andcut devices 259, 264 on the turret 251.

The thread disposition and handling may be conveniently first described by the threading of the devices, as shown in the diagrams Figs. 38 to 45, in connection with Figs. to 37 and others. The crimp head 68 is initially lifted, the cam 238 allowing lever head 215 to drop, and the rear column 259 and plungerA 264 taking the position of Figs. 38 and 39. By thumb and finger the thread D is laid in the column aperture 260 as shown, and so held. The crimp head is lowered, the parts take the position of Figs, 40 and 41 and Fig. 30, the thread dropping into the plunger recess 265 ready to-be gripped and cut. The crimp head is again lifted; as it rises cam 236 lowers lever head 213 and plunger 264, and the edges 262, 261 first, pinch the thread and grip it, and the edges 26|, 266 immediately cut it, leaving the supply end gripped, as in Figs. 42 and 43. This stage is represented by the partially up'- swung position of the crimp head shown in Fig. 31 in full lines. The fragmentary thread end is discarded in this initial threading but this does not. occur in continued operation. The remaining upswing of the head to the dotted line position of Fig. 31 causes lug 231 to act on lug 242, thus swinging arm 243 and throwing frontward rack 246, which rotates the turret 251 through the Fig. 44 position. Clockwise around to the Fig. 45 position, which further indicates the result of the next lowering of the head 68, the needle guide 230 having come to place at the right of the thread and the fork 233 to its left.

'I'he threading is complete and Fig. 45 represents the operative position of the turret and carried parts. The columns have changed places. The tensioned thread is now held across the needle path by the f ront gripper at a height for the needle to pass just beneath it, with the fork horizontally stretched thread until the thread drops behind its hook into the needle slit. The needle immediately stops, reverses and retracts; and it pulls thread from the supply through the rear column, the thread end being gripped. The rockrod |51 h as meanwhile been latched frontward as in Fig. 27, ready'to unlatch, and consequently the lever head 225 is in its lowered position as in Fig. 31, clear of the front plunger 264, which remains lowered and gripping the thread end. But as the`retracting needle tail soon reaches the second controller |56 it causes unlatching of the rockrod |51, as in Fig. 28, and

the lever spring 226 lifts the lever head 225 and rocks the rod. This occurs instantaneously at a predetermined point in the needle retraction,

the continued needle retraction. At the end of the operation the seam is complete and the next lift of the crimp head causes the supply thread to be cut as in Fig. 43, and permits extraction of the work and the knotting of the thread ends.

By a rearrangement the thread can be measured exactly to the seam as follows. The second controller may be shifted rightward to a position wherein it operates as the needle has pulled the thread halfway along the seam. At thispoint it may cause release of the front gripper 262, 261 and simultaneous gripping or locking of the supply thread at the rear gripper or therebeyond, so that the thread will slip through the needle during the final half stroke. Or it may cause the cutting of the thread at the rear cutter 26|, 266 or therebeyond without releasing the front gripper, the rear thread strand thereby slipping through the needle until the seam is completed.

While the drive means for causing longitudinal travel of the needle to pierce the work crimps and to carry the thread therethrough has been illustratively shown as a system of friction drive rolls, preferably reversible in action, it is to be understood that broadly considered the travel of the needle may be brought about by various other mech-anicalmeans. Thus, alongside of the retracted position of the needle may be arranged an endless belt or chain, passing around pulleys, the stretch of belt which is adjacent to the needle being of at least the full length of the needle stroke, and the needle, near its butt end, being attached to one point 'of this belt, so that by running the belt in alternate directions the needle will be thrust advancingly and retractingly; there being suitable needle guiding means, as partly on the belt and partly opposed thereto, holding the needle in its true path. With this arrangement the control of the drive, its reversal and stoppage, may be effected from the belt rather than directly from the needle as hereinbefore specifically disclosed. Another mode oi driving the needle, avoiding rotary parts, may consist of a system of one or more grippers, each adapted to be moved to and fro along the path of travel, and adapted on its advancing movement to engage and grip or wedge the needle, thrusting it forward, and returning for another thrusting operation; by which arrangement the needle may be given either a rapid intermittent advance or, by a series of grippers, a continuous or variable speed advance; the action being reversed when the needle is fully advanced, or the needle being otherwise rapidly retracted to initial position. As indicating the various possibilities of needle drive a further mode of actuation is indicated as follows.

racted straightly, so that when fully retracted it stands at length, requiring a long guide, and a great length of machine; but this can be vaied, the needle being of slender pliable metal, by retracting the needle around a curved path for example upon the periphery of a needle actuating wheel or disk having a circumference preferably greater than the full needle travel, the butt end of the needle -attached to the wheel, the wheel being turned alternately in reverse directions, and there being exterior guide means holding the curved part of the needle wrapped snugly around As shown, the needle is rethe wheel. By this plan the needle when retracted occupies minimum space but during action performs all of the essential operations.

The driving connections, for reversal of needle motion, are shown as comprising a reversible clutch, but manifestly a reversal of motion may be obtained in any known manner, and the final stopage as well. For example types of electric motor are known which are readily and instantaneously brough into reverse rotation and which can be stopped promptly upon cutting off the current. With such motor the current has only to be controlled by the needle movement or position on the principles already described, to the simplification of the drive mechanism.

` There has thus been disclosed a slipstitching machine of the class described, and attaining the objects and advantages specified; but since many matters of operation, construction and arrangement may be variously modified without departing from the principles of the invention, it is not intended to limit the invention to such matters except so far as set forth in the appended claims. A

I claim:

l. n. slipstitching machine 'for attaching fabric plies, comprising a work crimping means consisting of an opposed pair of crimper members, having an extended series of complementary projections and recesses transverse to the seam line adapted to shape the work into a transversely crimped condition and clamp it so, one of the crimpers carried on a head movable to and from the other, and said crimpers having also complementary longitudinal grooves constituting a way through which a needle and thread may be traversed, in combination with a Afree needle adapted to traverse said way and thereby pierce the entire series of crimps in one stroke, and drive means for causing longitudinal travel of the needle to pierce the Vcrimps and to carry the thread therethrough, comprising a. set of opposed drive rolls operating by frictional pressure upon the free needle.

2. A machine as in claim 1and wherein the needle drive means has control means timed with the needle travel for causing reverse of drive at the end of the advance stroke. d

3. A machine' as in claim 1 and wherein the needle drive means Vhas control means timed with the needle travel for causing reverse of drive at the end of the advance stroke and throw-off at the'end of the retracting stroke.

4. A machine as in claim 1 and wherein the timing of the drive is taken from the needle itself during its travel.

5. A slipstitching machine for attaching fabric plies, as those of a necktie, comprising a work crimping means consisting of an opposed pair of work crimpers or jaws adapted to shape the work into a transversely crimped condition and clamp it so, one of the crimpers carried on a head` adapted to be lifted and lowered to open and close the crimping means, in combination with a needle, means for presenting the thread to ,be engaged by the needle'when advanced, and drive means for causing longitudinal travell of the needle advancingly to pierce a series of crimps in one stroke, and then retractingly to carry the thread therethrough; said drive means comprising a three-position clutch, a shifter or lever for shifting -the clutch between advance and reverse drives and stop, means actuated in time with the needle for moving the shifter from advance to reverse position as the needle completes its advance stroke, and means actuated in time with the needle for moving the shifter to stop position as the needle completes its retraction.

6. A slipstitching' machine for attaching fabric plies, as those of a necktie, comprising a work crimping means consisting of an opposed pair of work crimpers or jaws adapted to shape the work into a transversely crimped condition vand clamp it so, one of the crimpers carried on a head adapted to be lifted and lowered to open and close the crimping means, in combination witha needle, means for presenting the thread to be engaged by the needle when advanced, and drive means for causing longitudinal travel of the needle advancingly to pierce a series of crimps in one stroke, 'and then retractingly to carry the thread therethrough; said drive means comprising a three-position clutch, a shifteror lever for shifting the clutch between advance and reverse drives and stop, a latch to hold the shifter in advance position, spring means to move the shifter to reverse position, means actuated in time with the needle for unlatching the shifter to ,cause movement from advance to reverseposition as the needle completes its advance stroke, an auxiliary shift member having spring means to move it and the shifter from reverse to stop position, and means actuated in time with the needle for unlatching the auxiliary member to cause the shifter to move to stop position as the needle completes its retraction.

7. A machine as in claim. 6 and wherein the means for unlatching the shifter is a controller actuated by the needle, and .the means for un`- latching the auxiliary member is another controller actuated by the needle;A each of thef latches and controllers having means for resetting them foreach operation.

8. A machine as in claim 6 and wherein are connections operated by'the movement of the crimping head to reset the auxiliary shift member and charge its spring means. v

9. A fabric slipstitching machine comprising an opposed pair of work-crimping jaws, one ofthe jaw's` being carried on a head adapted to be opened and closed, in combination with a hooked needle having means for causing longitudinal travel of the needle advancingly to pierce a series of crimps in one stroke, and then retractingly to carry the thread therethrough, and a thread handling means for presenting the thread stretched across to be engaged by the. needle hook when advanced; said thread handling means comprising a plurality of deviceseach lhaving a gripper and a cutter, and across which the thread is stretched in line with the needle; with connections for alternating the positions of said devices to present a new length of'thread afterl the completion of each seam.

10. A machine as in claim 9 and wherein is a controller actuated at partial retraction to open a gripper and release the thread for the remainder of the retraction.

11. A machine as in claim 9 and wherein the crimper'head movements are caused to operate connections for alternating the thread devices.

12. A machine as in claim 9 and wherein the crimper head movements are caused to'operate connections for alternating the thread devices, and to control the gripping and cutting actions of one device, while the needle travel controls thelactions of the other device.

13'. A vfabric slipstitching machine comprising an opposed pair of work crimping jaws, one of the jaws being carried on a head adapted to be opened and closed, in combination with a hooked needle having means for causing longitudinal travel of .the needle advancingly to pierce a series of crimps in one stroke, and then retractingly to carry the thread therethrough, and a thread handling means for presenting the thread stretched across to be engaged by the needle hook when advanced; said thread handling means comprising a rotatable turret or carriage, twin devices .thereon spaced oppositely from the axis each comprising a thread gripper and a thread cutter, across which devices the vthread is stretched gripped by one of them, and loose to slip through the other during 'needle retraction, and means to rotate said turret after `each operation thereby to interchange the devices and restretch the thread for the next4 operation.

14:.A A machine as in claim 13 and wherein is a controller actuated at partial retraction to open a gripper and release th'e thread for the remainder of the retraction.

15. A machine as in claim 13 and wherein the crimper head movements are caused to operate connections for alternating the thread devices.

16. 'A machine as in claim 13 and wherein the crimper head movements are caused tovoperate connections for alternating the thread devices,

and to control the gripping and cutting actions of one device, while the needle travel controls the actions of the other device.

17. A slipstitching machine for attaching together fabric plies as those of a necktie, comprising a pair of opposed crimping jaws longitudinally rigid of the full length of the completed 'seam to be stitched, and mounted for rela- A tive transverse approach to press and clamp at full length between the jaws the extended work;

said rigid jaws formed with numerous complementary transverse projections and recesses to aiord `a crimping of the extended work in long shallow waves by the transverse approach andclosing of the jaws and to hold the work so `clamped at full length between th jaws during y the laying of the thread; and said opposed jaws providing also a longitudinal needle way through which a needle may be traversed; in combination with a needle of at least the full length of the completed seam, and needle drive means operative while the work is so clamped at full length under transverse pressure between the crimping jaws, to deliver to the needle a stroke of the full length of the completed seam, thereby to traverse such needle way of the jaws and to travel through the work crimps, for laying a full length thread through the extended fabric, thereby to produce ai completed slipstitch seam connecting the fabric plies of th work.

18. A slipstitching machine for attaching together fabric plies as those of a necktie, comprising a pair of opposed crimping jaws longitudinally rigid and non-collapsible for the full length of the completed seam, and mounted for relative transverse approach to press and clamp at full length between the jaws the extended work; said rigid jaws formed with numerous complementary transverse projections and shallow recesses to' aiord a crimping of the extendedv crimping ',iaws, to deliver to the needle a piercing stroke of the full length ,of the completed seam,

' thereby to traverse such needle way of the Jaws and to` pierce the work crimps, for the laying of a full length thread through the extended fabric, thereby to produce a completed slipstitch seam connecting the fabric plies of the work.

l9. A slipstitching machine forattaching to-v.

gether fabric plies as those of a necktie. comprising a pair of opposed and longitudinally rigid crimping jaws of the full length of the-completed seam to be produced, and mounted'for relative transverse approach to press and clamp at full length between the jawsl the extended work; said rigid :laws formed with numerous complementary transverse projections and recesses to afford a wavy crimping of the extendedwork by the transverse approach and closing of the jaws and functioning to hold the crimped work so clamped at' full length during the laying of the thread; and said opposed jaws also formed to provide a longitudinal needle way through which a needle may be traversed. crimps of the work: in dle of at least the full combination with 'a neelength of the completed seam, and needle drive means operative while the work is so clamped at full length under transverse pressure between the crimping jaws, to deliver to the needle a thread-laying stroke of the-full length of the completed seam, thereby to traverse such needle way of the Jaws and'to draw through the work crimps of the extended fabric a full length thread, thereby to produce acompleted slipstitch seam connecting the fabric plies of the work.

20. A machine as needle drive means is coordinated to cause a piercing stroke of the'needle beyond the full length of the final seam followed by a complete retraction thereof, and wherein is timed means to apply thread to the point end of the advanced needle before each retraction.

21. machine as in clam 19 and wherein the.

to carry a thread through theV in claim 19 and wherein the' needle drive means comprises drive rollers between which the needle is thrust advancingly through the vneedle way and work crimps.

' 22. A slip'stitching machine for uniting plies of stretchable textile fabric, comprising crimping.

means to form the entire length of fabric to be stitched simultaneously into a transversely crimped condition and so hold it, at length, as permitted by its stretch, in combination with a free needle adapted in one longitudinal stroke to pierce all of the crimps of the fabric, and drive means for engaging and actuating the free needle to advance through the drive means and crimped work, said drive means comprising driven rolls between which'the needle travels.

23. A slipstitching machine'for uniting plies of stretchable textile fabric, comprising crimping means to form the entire length of fabric to be stitched lsimultaneously into -a transversely crimped condition and so hold it, at length, as permitted by its stretch, in combination with a free needle adapted in one longitudinal stroke to pierce all ofthe crimps of the fabric, and drive means for engaging and actuating the tree needle to advance it through the crimped work, said drive means having automatic control means timed with the needle travel to reverse the drive direction at the end of the advancing stroke thereby toretract it from the work and to stop the drive at the end of the retraction.

24. A slipstitching machine for uniting plies of stretchable textile fabric, comprising crimping means to form the entire lengthnof fabric to be stitched simultaneously into a .transversely condition and so hold it, at length as` permitted by its stretch in combination with a free needle adapted in one longitudinal stroke to pierce all of the crimps of the fabric, and drive and actuating the crimpedl work, said drive means having automatic control means timed from the movement of the needle itself during itstravel.

mm. F. mena. 

